On a sunny October afternoon in the London neighborhood of Bermondsey, I was surprised by a cool breeze carrying the fragrant smell of apples. It immediately triggered a craving for a combination of Cheddar cheese and apples, which had been my favorite after-school snack growing up in Connecticut. The timing couldn’t have been more perfect as I was on my way to a special lesson about British farmhouse cheeses at Neal’s Yard Dairy, the ultimate destination for cheese lovers. Located in the aging cellars of a Victorian railway viaduct, the dairy is normally not open to the public. However, as part of a cheese-themed trip organized by Cheese Journeys, I had the privilege to explore the cellars and learn about the cheeses and the company’s efforts to preserve them.
The tour group, consisting of 18 cheese enthusiasts, including myself, were guided by Anna Juhl, the founder of Cheese Journeys, and Laura Downey and Chris Palumbo from Fairfield & Greenwich Cheese Company. These experts were not only great company but also a wealth of knowledge about all things cheese.
The journey began with a morning tour of Borough Market, a renowned food hall in London, led by Cecilia Brooks, an American-in-London guide and cookbook writer. We then indulged in a delicious picnic lunch from the Ginger Pig, a stall in the market known for its high-quality British meat and poultry.
Founded in 1979 by Randolph Hodgson, Neal’s Yard Dairy played a pivotal role in revitalizing British farmhouse cheeses. Not only did they provide a retail platform for these cheeses, but they also built aging cellars, established distribution networks, and formed partnerships to support British cheesemakers. Our guide through the aging cellars was Yvonne Yeoh, the sales director of Neal’s Yard.
As we explored the cold rooms filled with different types of cheese, Ms. Yeoh explained the art and science behind aging cheese. She emphasized the importance of regular tastings and the role of factors such as microbiomes in achieving optimum age and flavor. The tour concluded in a towering larder where large wheels of cheese were carefully aging, flooded by a draft of cold air.
To top off the tour, we sat down for a tasting of seven Neal’s Yard cheeses, including soft cheeses like Wigmore and Elrick Log. However, it was the Montgomery’s Cheddar that left the strongest impression with its earthy barnyard flavor and lingering finish. Its taste became an unforgettable experience that I knew I would crave forever.
The following day, we embarked on a bus journey to North Cadbury in Somerset, where Jamie Montgomery, the cheesemaker, crafts the remarkable Montgomery’s Cheddar. The journey also served as an opportunity to learn about Cheese Journeys from Anna Juhl, who shared her passion for cheese and the inspiration behind her travel business.
Upon arriving at North Cadbury Court, the ancestral home of the Montgomery family, the grandeur of the estate captivated us. With its historic architecture, lavish amenities, and breathtaking views, the house provided a luxurious and immersive experience of British country-house living. French chef Sylvain Jamois delighted us with his exceptional culinary skills, preparing traditional British dishes rarely found in restaurants.
The next morning, Mr. Montgomery himself led us on a personal tour of his farm and dairy. With his down-to-earth demeanor, he explained how the taste of the land is intricately woven into their cheese-making process. Donning protective gear, we witnessed the making of Cheddar cheese, feeling a sense of communion as we gathered around the vat where the curds were forming.
Overall, the trip was a remarkable experience that deepened my appreciation for British cheeses, especially Cheddar. It was an homage to the past, with memories of my paternal grandmother’s love for New York Cheddar, and a celebration of the present, as we learned from passionate cheese experts and craftsmen.
