Perhaps nothing captures the essence of Los Angeles quite like its freeways. These vast ribbons of asphalt and steel, despite the inevitable traffic jams, connect the coast, valley, and mountains, creating a intricate network of limited-access roads. However, it was not always like this. Before the first freeway opened in December 1940, the people of Los Angeles navigated the city using charming two-lane roads that meandered through a picturesque Southern California landscape of hills, canyons, ranches, orange groves, and avocado farms. Some of these roads follow the original stagecoach routes, and fortunately, many of them still exist today, although the citrus groves have given way to multimillion-dollar homes.
So, one sunny morning, I embarked on a journey from my home near the San Fernando Valley to the wine country northwest of Santa Barbara, roughly 100 miles away. My mission was to uncover the hidden gems that have stood the test of time, obscured from the speedy cars zooming by at 75 miles per hour. Here are some of the highlights from my adventure:
1. Plummer House/Leonis Adobe: Located in Calabasas, this blue Victorian bungalow known as the “oldest house in Hollywood” was actually built in the 1870s and later relocated. Next to it stands the Leonis Adobe, a two-story adobe brick home built for Miguel Leonis, a prominent Los Angeles landowner. The museum is open on weekends.
2. King Gillette Ranch: Situated at the intersection of Las Virgenes Road and Mulholland Highway, this 588-acre ranch was once owned by razor magnate King Gillette. The 1920s Spanish Colonial Revival mansion, designed by architect Wallace Neff, is a stunning example of the “California style.” The ranch is part of a national recreation area and offers free admission.
3. The Old Place: As you travel along the Mulholland Highway, you’ll stumble upon this rustic cabin that once served as the post office in Cornell, California. The Old Place restaurant, owned and operated by the Runyon family, specializes in delicious steaks grilled over local red oak. Prepare to squeeze into tight seating arrangements or dine among the trees on the property.
4. Satwiwa Native American Indian Cultural Center: Located on Potrero Road, this cultural center is part of a National Park Service site that preserves a former Chumash village. On weekends, Native American guides are available to share insights into Chumash culture and showcase a replica of a Chumash home. Admission is free.
5. Mullin Automotive Museum: If you’re a fan of vintage cars, make a detour to this museum in Oxnard, founded by Peter Mullin. The collection features French vehicles from the 1890s to the present, including early Bugatti racing cars. The museum offers a glimpse into the history of automotive design and is housed in an Art Deco-style interior.
6. California Oil Museum: Situated in Santa Paula, this museum occupies the original Victorian headquarters of the Union Oil Company. It provides a comprehensive history of California’s oil industry and even features a working 19th-century oil rig.
7. Ojai Valley Overlook: Stop by this rest area on your way to Ojai for a breathtaking view of the valley floor and surrounding farmland nestled amidst the Topatopa Mountains. It’s a perfect spot for a quick break.
8. Boccali’s Pizza and Pasta: Located in the Ojai valley, this family-run restaurant offers a cozy atmosphere reminiscent of a European bistro. Enjoy their build-your-own-pizza menu or choose from a selection of pasta dishes. Don’t forget to pick up some locally grown produce from their porch stand.
9. Lake Casitas: As you circumnavigate Lake Casitas, admire the three-mile-long reservoir that provides drinking water to Ojai and its neighboring areas. Fishing, boating, and camping are permitted, but swimming is prohibited due to water restrictions.
10. Cold Spring Tavern: Journeying along Stagecoach Road, you’ll stumble across this historic tavern that originally served as a stagecoach stop in 1868. Grab a bite to eat and experience the rustic charm of a restaurant nestled among vine-covered hills. Don’t forget to explore the adjacent tiny jail and road gang house, which dates back to the late 1800s.
These are just a few of the hidden gems that await you on the back roads of Los Angeles. So put the freeways aside, slow down, and discover the rich history, natural beauty, and unique attractions that lie beyond the hustle and bustle of the city.
